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THE BLACK TRUFFLE IN HISTORY
A GASTRONOMIC JEWEL KNOWN SINCE ANTIQUITY
The discovery of the black truffle still remains mysterious. We only know that it was already highly prized in antiquity and commonly used in the cuisine of the Egyptians, Romans and Greeks. It is assumed that it has been tasted since that time because it has been reported that in Egypt around 2600 BC, the Pharaoh Cheops used to serve this truffle to delegations who came to honor him. In the same way everything leads to believe that the "apples of love" that Leah the wife of Jacob disputes with Rachel in the writings of the Bible were quite simply truffles.
In the Middle Ages, this tuber was thought to be a work of the devil and was banned because of its alleged aphrodisiac properties. It only made its first real appearance in France in the 15th century at the table of François 1er who returned from his exile in Spain, then later on the tables of the High and Rich Society of the 18th century. From there, it decorates the most refined dishes making the happiness of the gourmets of yesterday until today.
Did you know ? A Périgord legend tells that one winter evening an elderly woman came knocking on the door of a woodcutter and his family to ask for asylum. After receiving board and lodging, the old woman transformed herself into a "fairy of Périgord" . This superb creature offered its host some seeds to thank him for his gesture and invited him to plant them at the foot of the trees in his garden. They would grow, she told him, in the form of mushrooms which would then make him very rich and so it was...
TUBER MELANOSPORUM
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE BLACK PÉRIGORD TRUFFLE
The Tuber Melanosporum appears as a round, globular mass displaying warts and protuberances, with unequal shape and size for an average weight of 30 to 50 grams. Its slightly grainy relief surface is not smooth and has roughness reminiscent of the facets of a diamond, hence its nickname "Périgord diamond" . The Tuber Mélanosporum is a variety of black truffle which can sometimes, depending on the region where it is harvested, tend towards dark brown. The flesh is firm, brownish/greyish in color dotted with white veins.
WHERE DOES THE BLACK TRUFFLE GROW?
The Tuber Melanosporum, known as the Périgord black truffle , as its name suggests, grows in the South-West of France more precisely along the Dordogne valley but also in the South-East. In Europe, it is cultivated in Spain, Italy and in Eastern countries. Australia is also a major producing country.
Quel est le prix au kilo de la truffe ?
In France, the production of the black truffle is in decline. Previously, the majority of truffle fields were wild. Men maintained the soil to guarantee quality land favoring the development of truffles.
Today, there are hardly any wild truffles left. These areas have been abandoned by the populations. The floors are therefore no longer maintained as much. In addition, knowledge about truffle production is less, it is very complicated to "cultivate" these tubers.
At the beginning of the 20th century, France produced an average of 1000 tons of black truffles per year. Today, production has dropped to an average of 30 tons.
Truffles are therefore rare on the markets of Lalbenque, Richerenches, Carpentras...
Quels sont les sols et les climats propices à la culture de la truffe noire ?
WHAT SOIL AND CLIMATES ARE SUITABLE FOR BLACK TRUFFLE GROWING?
This variety grows in the limestone soils it likes, between 1 and 15 cm deep at the foot of trees endemic to the South-West called "truffle trees", but also holm oaks and hazelnut trees. She lives in symbiosis with these trees which provide her with the sugars she needs. In return, truffles help tree roots better absorb minerals, water and nitrogen.
The Tuber Melanosporum begins to form from the end of April to the beginning of June and then develops throughout the summer because it particularly likes the rainstorms of August. According to Theophrastus a Greek philosopher (372-287 BC), this black mushroom was:
“A plant engendered by autumn rains accompanied by thunderclaps.”
It really reaches its full maturity when the first cold spells arrive and is then available for sale from November/December to March. This is the reason why this mushroom plays the stars on the festive tables of the end of the year. Nevertheless, purists agree that the best time to consume this variety of truffle is January and February.
Harvesting this mushroom that hides underground is special. We use the term " caver " which means to harvest the truffle. Its odor is not detectable by humans. It is for this reason that truffle growers use a dog, certain kinds of flies or more rarely a pig which easily locates truffles thanks to their trained sense of smell.
Quel est le goût de la truffe noire ?
WHAT DOES THE BLACK TRUFFLE TASTE?
The black truffle is a complex cocktail of aromas with a particular flavor. The intense and particular scent of the Melanosporum truffle varies according to its maturity and quality. The intensity of its aroma is proportional to the quality. Finely peppery, its subtle smell is reminiscent of musk, undergrowth, earth and humus sublimated with a delicate aroma of roasted hazelnut. There are, however, noticeable differences in scent from one region to another, depending on the amount of rain that has fallen and the tree at the foot of which the truffle has grown. Tuber Mélanosporum is the species best known for its bewitching aroma and taste qualities.
TIPS FOR RECOGNIZING A QUALITY TUBER MELANOSPORUM
In order not to be mistaken, three criteria must be remembered when choosing a Tuber Melanosporum that is fresh , mature and imprinted with its terroir. Care should be taken:
- Its firmness : A very fresh product must remain firm between the fingers.
- Its veining : The mushroom must present a beautiful dark brown color with a slight white veining inside. When purchasing, it is important that the product be presented slightly nicked (knifed) to reveal its veining. The presence of veins proves that the truffle has not been frozen. Otherwise, it loses its water, becomes soft and the veins disappear.
- By its smell : Its scent must remain bewitching.
Conseils pour reconnaître une Tuber Melanosporum de qualité
Pour ne pas se tromper, trois critères sont à retenir au moment de choisir une Tuber Melanosporum fraîche, à maturité et empreinte de son terroir. Il convient de bien faire attention :
- À sa fermeté : Un produit bien frais doit rester ferme entre les doigts.
- À son veinage : Le champignon doit présenter une belle couleur brun foncé avec un léger veinage blanc à l’intérieur. Lors de l’achat il est important que le produit soit présenté légèrement entaillé (canifé) pour laisser entrevoir son veinage. La présence de veines prouve que la truffe n’a pas été gelée. Dans le cas contraire, elle perd son eau, devient molle et les veines disparaissent.
- À son odeur : Son parfum doit rester envoûtant.
THE BLACK TRUFFLE IN GASTRONOMY
COOKING MÉLANOSPORUM: IN WHICH RECIPES SHOULD YOU USE IT?
What makes the value of Melanosporum is above all its seasonality and for this reason nothing is better than tasting it fresh in winter. The fresh truffle does not wash but gently brush to remove dirt. Taste it at room temperature, plain and cut into thin strips to better highlight and appreciate its aroma.
It is cooked during its full maturation phase that this truffle exhales the most aromas. Cooking it well means knowing how to trap the aroma in a fatty substance: cream, butter, oil, cheese, egg or bacon. There is no shortage of recipes incorporating truffles and ways to consume them. We will cite for example the most famous recipe which is the famous brouillade of truffles .
You can taste it at restaurants or make it yourself. With Périgord truffles, imagination and creativity are the key to a successful dish.
This variety of black truffle is cooked. This is not the case with the white truffle, which can only be eaten raw.
The aromas of Tuber Melanosporum are fragile. It does not support high temperatures. It is therefore recommended, when it is incorporated into a cooked preparation, to cook it at a very low temperature or to incorporate it at the end of cooking to avoid exposing it to high heat. Since it is a powerful flavor enhancer, this truffle is also used in sauce, in fumet to spice up many dishes. It goes wonderfully with potatoes, rice, eggs or pasta. You can also sprinkle small pieces on a salad, fresh or cooked foie gras, mashed potatoes or mix them with meat or a sauce, taking care not to overcook them, just barely cool them.
Another idea, put the truffle for 24 hours in a pot of fresh cream to accompany a soup or potatoes.
The proportions recommended to appreciate this product at its fair value without being disgusted by it, are 10 to 15 grams per person.
QUESTIONS COMPLÉMENTAIRES
Quels sont les plus beaux marchés aux truffes ?
Les marchés aux truffes sont des lieux uniques, à faire au moins 1 fois dans sa vie. Il en existe un certain nombre, cependant, des marchés sont plus réputés et sortent du lot. Dans le Sud-Ouest, les marchés, à absolument faire, sont ceux de Jarnac, Sarlat et Lalbenque. Alors que si vous êtes dans le Sud-Est, les marchés les plus renommés sont ceux de Carpentras et Richerenches.
Quelle est la saison de la truffe noire ?
La Tuber Melanosporum apprécie les températures fraîches et de bonnes précipitations pour se développer. C’est pourquoi sa saison se situe dans les mois les plus frais. En effet, la saison de la truffe s’étale de début novembre à mars, voire avril selon les années. Cependant, là où elle est la plus mature, la pleine saison de la truffe noire, est pendant les mois de janvier et février.
Quel arbre truffier planter ?
Il faut savoir que le choix de votre arbre truffier va dépendre de différents facteurs comme la zone géographique, le climat ou encore le type de sol. En effet, tous les arbres truffiers ne s’adaptent pas partout. Pour connaître ces données, il vous faudra faire de nombreuses analyses et recherches approfondies. Ensuite, pour choisir le bon arbre truffier, il faudra choisir un arbre truffier mycorhizé avec la variété de truffes que vous souhaitez produire, Tuber Melanosporum ou une autre variété.
Comment produire des truffes noires ?
Tout d’abord, pour produire des truffes noires, il faut que certaines conditions soient remplies, notamment climatiques et aussi de nature du sol. En effet, la culture de la truffe noire du Périgord est capricieuse. Cette dernière a besoin, d’un point de vue climatique, d’ensoleillement, d’humidité et de chaleur pour se développer. Le sol doit être calcaire avec un pH bien spécifique se situant entre 7,5 et 8,5 et un taux de calcaire de minimum 8%. Si toutes ces conditions sont remplies, alors vous pouvez essayer de produire de la Tuber Melanosporum en plantant des arbres truffiers mycorhizés par cette même variété.
Quel est le goût de la truffe noire ?
Possédant une saveur singulière, la truffe noire est considérée comme la plus savoureuse des truffes. Avec son intense et incomparable parfum, ce diamant noir du Périgord possède une subtile odeur de sous-bois, de terre et d’humus, qui varie selon sa maturité. Ce complexe cocktail d’arômes est sublimé par un délicat goût finement poivré et de noisette torréfiée. Si la maturité joue sur le goût de la Tuber Melanosporum, ce dernier a des différences notables selon la qualité de la truffe et selon la région de récolte. En effet, l’arôme de la truffe noire varie en fonction de la quantité d’eau tombée et de la variété de l’arbre au pied duquel elle a poussé.